Denver Fish Channel

This week I went up to Denver for a couple nights staying at Downham Market, popped into Kings Lynn, all the usual stuff including cleaning, sweeping and polishing. I'm pleased to see my new mid grey roof paint is still looking good, well after only a month it should be!

Need to think more about doing the sides. I like the two tone grey approach with maybe a light coach line but I need to be sure before I set to with the orbital sander.

It was interesting to see the works EA are doing next to the Relief Channel lock. They are putting in a long stepped concrete channel for salmon and eels to reach the Ouse. This is not a small piece of work and is probably costing them an arm and a leg but good on them. It's time this sort of thing was done. I wonder what plans they have for the rest of the system.

No other news apart from the fact that the river is still quiet; not many people about yet. I guess it may start to get busy now the school holidays have started and the weekends are brightening up.

One piece of news not related to boating is the announcement that the Blog platform I use is being done away with from 15 December 2015 and that I will have to find another way of communicating with the world. I also have to work out how to save what I have already written. It may take me the next few months to achieve that!

Normandy Beaches summing up

As I said at the start, I've not produced a blow by blow account - it would be too long and boring but I've just included a flavour of what I saw. There is so much to see, especially if you look at all the museums, visitor centres and visit the many memorials and plaques as well.

I did it in 10 days but that included about 1000 miles of driving, the two ferry crossings, visiting other stretches of coast, etc. If you were pressed for time and could plan your trip carefully around places to visit and their opening times, I guess it could be done comfortably in a week, less if fewer sites were visited.

Places to stay are manifold, whether camping or using hotels. I 'wild camped' in the Land Rover and provided discrete sites are found that are away from sources of noise or other disturbances, that should be fine for any tents, camper vans or similar.

Petrol and diesel prices are low. I found diesel in Carentan as low as 1.11 euros. The highest I paid was 1.15. Food prices were also very reasonable especially in local markets. The P&O ferry crossings were £100 both ways so that equates to only £10 a day. Entrance fees to museums range from 4 -15 euros; again, this is very cheap compared to the UK.

The places to visit are really all good quality but I've mentioned the tendency that some might be going towards a theme park but I would hope good sense will prevail. I certainly saw lots of money still being invested. I guess at some point the market will become saturated and investment will plateau or start to drop but until then everything seems buoyant.

I understand and fully support raising understanding and improving education for everyone, especially children, and if they can experience some of this to appreciate what our previous generations went through in the name of freedom (quite rightly), this is a good thing. But it does bug me when I see coach loads of kids being dragged around these historic places because they have to. Many are simply not interested (could it be the boring pre-trip pep-talk) or maybe they cannot see the relevance to them; some cannot even take their eyes off their I-Pads. Come on parents and teachers - inspire!

Of course most visitors seem to be genuinely interested. Others are clearly moved by what they see, me included.

Going to these sites just 'out-of-season' and certainly outside school holiday times is a good plan and visiting early in the morning is also a good thing. 

If it's peace and quiet you want for personal reflection, I think you have to accept that you will have to compromise or plan your trip to avoid or mentally block out the crowds.

Anyway, I must not end on a negative note so will sum up with a selection of photos that I have not included elsewhere. I think they bring out all the positives of the place and there are so many of them.

The bust of Major John Howard, at Pegasus Bridge - the Commanding Officer who led his troops in battle. A true and inspirational leader. Respect and Pride!

A German bunker - one of hundreds of military emplacements along the Atlantic Wall. A fantastic achievement but for all the wrong reasons. If only the Germans could have devoted their time and skills to something more positive.

The Germans were developing their own radar at Douvres-la-Delivrande but it was never as good as ours. Ironically, war has proved to be one of the greatest motivations for technological advancement.

Much of the new architecture was modern and inspirational yet sympathetic to their surroundings. However, some of the new museums left a bit to be desired like this one at Point du Hoc. I suppose an architectural student might argue that it was designed to be subservient to the intrinsic character of the important historic site (read about it and you'll know why)...or maybe they just used a rubbish architect with a limited budget!

On a personal front, I wanted to combine this trip with a tour around the northwest coast and, the further you drive west into the Contentin (Cherbourg) Peninsula, the more interesting it looks; a bit like Devon and Cornwall. It creates great opportunities for arty photos.

Finally, one of my primary aims was not to hit my shin on the rear step of the Landy again and I achieved this thanks to a crafty bit of yellow pipe insulation. All things considered, a very successful trip!

Dead Man's Corner

Prior to my visit I researched the area using Major and Mrs Holt's Definitive Battlefield Guide to the D-Day Landing ( a very good buy - same as I used for the Somme and Flanders). It mentioned Dead Man's Corner just to the north of Carentan in the American sector off Utah Beach. This site was held by the Germans as a center for their operations to protect the peninsula from further incursions by the Americans. It was therefore fought over intensely. It formed the basis of the book and tv film, Band of Brothers.

The house at the road junction was fought over and at one point a tank was hit and put out of action. The commander was killed and his body hung out of the hatch for 3 days before it could be taken down and buried - hence the name.

Originally the house was set up as a private museum and specialist military shop selling high quality (and high priced) original clothing and military ware. It is still there and I can see the couple of rooms are quite good but very limited in scope.

Now, here's the interesting bit - look behind the house, to the right...

...and you will see this...a brand new hanger with high quality exhibitions, a good gift shop and a Dakota aeroplane (I'll come back to that). It's only a month old and there's not even a muddy mark on the gleaming white car park and concrete paths.

Anyway, I was one of the first to arrive (always a good thing, before the people carriers and coaches arrive). I was advised it would take about 30 minutes to see the first bit of the exhibition, which it did. The young lady then said we were now ready for our briefing so the five of us, another gent and a family of three, went around a corridor into a mock-up of an air-force briefing room.

We sat down on the benches and waited. We could see a table and chair in the room, and a door. The lights went down and, as they came slowly back up again, the door opened and a flight lieutenant came in. He then went about briefing us on this momentous flight we were about to make; the culmination of all our training, to parachute into occupied France on D-Day. Gripping stuff.

After the briefing, we were taken into the next room, which looked like the hardstanding of an airfield and on it stood the Dakota. We were told to get in and strap ourselves in to our seats, which we did. The girl followed us to make sure we were ready and she then left, closing the door behind us. We waited.

In a few seconds we could hear the huge engines start and the plane vibrated under the strain. It started to move down the runway and we could see out of the windows, the airfield whizzed past. As it gathered speed it took off and it rocked and juddered as it gained in height. We could see other Dakotas alongside us doing the same in rough formation. We flew over the channel and as we reached the French coast we were targeted by anti-aircraft flak. We were battered about and then we heard a loud bang and could see one of our engines on fire. The plane took a nose dive and smoke came out of the cockpit. The tannoy told us to brace ourselves. We hit the ground in a controlled but heavy landing. As we came to a halt the girl came back in and told us to get out. It all lasted about 4-5 minutes I suppose but was a very good impression of the real thing (I guess) and I found it quite emotional really. 

While this was a bit at the theme park end of things, it was nevertheless a good experience and unique as far as I could tell. So, there is money in this military tourist experience. As I said, I just wonder how far it will go.

It was too dark too take any pictures inside. In fact, to be honest, it was so engaging, I forgot to take any but I did find this rather nice Landy parked outside...

Anyway, this museum is worth going to, especially before the carpark gets too may oil drips on it.

Utah Beach

The C47 Museum at Ste Mere Eglise is another 'must see' museum.

It contains, as you might expect, a full sized C47 and numerous other exhibits set in opulent surroundings.

You know, on that last point, once you've seen a few of these sites you start to realise the Americans know quite a bit about visitor attractions, the real visitor experience and how much has to be spent to get their message across. As the number of  WW2 veterans and military geeks reduce over time, they seem to be replaced by thousands of tourists seeking a place to go while on holiday and a quick fix of 'history and culture'. They bring loads of dough, which is obvious from the high financial investment put into the old and new sites, and, in away, you shouldn't knock it. It's good for the local economy, and its good for raising standards of provision and general understanding but I do wonder where it will all end. Will we, one day, see Normandy looking like Orlando?

The museum on Utah Beach has had money spent on it but it still retains much of its old style. 

A new exhibition hall, (should I say Hanger?) with a full scale B26 aeroplane and truck in it is a good example of something done well without turning it into a theme park ride.

Talking of which, I now turn inland to Dead Man's Corner - my next post.

Omaha Museum

Back to Omaha. Just at the top of the entrance road you will find the Omaha Museum containing some very good diaramas of battle scene with original refurbished vehicles and very life-like models (some older museums often have models, it seems, are taken from shop windows; some even have faces that are clearly female when they should obviously be male. I guess these will be replaced in the fullness of time!)

Elsewhere at Omaha you will find many memorials and plaques, too numerous to mention. 

The American Nation Guard Memorial is bold expression...

... as is the modern sculpture nearby, Les Braves...

The more traditional sculpture on the promenade may be to most people's taste...

Arromanches

Arromanches is most famous for being the location of the main Mulberry Harbour. It also has a fine 360 degree cinema Visitor Centre on the top of the eastern St Come cliff and an equally fine museum in the centre of the town. This naturally focuses on the harbour and you are left with the firm impression of the vast scale of this undertaking - it was truly astounding and without it the liberation would not have been sustained.

220,000 soldiers landed there together with 39,000 vehicles and thousands of tons of equipment and stores - breathtaking numbers.

Gold Beach

Opps, this is out of order. It should be between Juno and Omaha

The America Gold Beach Museum is off the beaten track, tucked inside a small housing estate as part of a Tourist Information Centre at Ver-Sur-Mer.

The first half concentrates on early American flight (locally important stuff) and the second half looks at the British storming of Gold. This place only cost 4 euros entrance fee so I was not expecting much and, to be honest, that's what I got. You could miss out this museum if you're pressed for time.

Omaha Beach

The American Cemetery at Omaha Beach is another 'Must See' site. This is the view over the reflective pool towards the cemetery.

It lies just inland from the beach itself and you can walk down to the beach along a new pathway. This gives a good impression of what the Americans were up against.

The new Visitor Centre, which leads to the cemetery, cost $30m to build and equip but once you get through security, including airport style X-rays, you are presented with a dimly lit and very thought-provoking exhibition and theatre presentation called, They walk with you. I won't tell you how it ends but I found the closing scene very moving, as did many others in the audience.

Then walk through the vast cemetery. It is as seen at the end of Saving Private Ryan. Again, very thought-provoking.

Juno Beach

Just sitting behind the sandy beach lies the shiny Juno Beach visitor Centre and Museum.

This is one of the nicest centres; very modern and well presented, with very helpful staff in the reception area.

Outside are various memorials, plaques, and the odd bunker or two. Again, this is a 'must see' site for any visit to the beaches.

One very moving relic is what's known as Cosy's Bunker, just down the beach...

After intense fighting, it was eventually taken by Lt William (Cosy) Aiten and his men of the Canadian Winnipeg Rifles by attacking with machine guns and rifle fire and throwing grenades into the apertures. 

Seeing this site and, of course, you can often see Hollywood films portraying such situations, I still find it hard to imagine what it must have been like to be under such intense fire and to move forward towards almost certain death. Minute by minute these men faced similar challenges, whether it was fighting in the streets, in the fields or house by house, room by room - quite remarkable and something I can only view with the utmost pride and respect.

Ouistraham Bunker

Just off the seafront of Sword Beach lies this bunker; most bunkers are built quite squat to the ground (for obvioius reasons), whereas this one is a reinforced concrete tower used primarily as a lookout.

It not only has a few vehicles and weapons outside on display but a good number of highly informative dioramas in the various rooms to give a very impression of life and work inside the bunker...

On D Day, the defending occupiers of the bunker held out for about 3 days with constant machine gun fire and stick grenades until Bob Orrell and 3 of his men eventually blasted the heavily armoured outside door off its hinges. They even found a box of explosives just inside the door left by the retreating occupiers! Anyway, when challenged, the two German Commanding Officers and their 50 men, 'invited' the British to go into the Bunker to get them out. Thinking quickly on his feet, Bob shouted up the stairs, 'Not bl**dy likely mate, you come down here.' The 4 British Tommies took the 52 German defenders as POWs.  If you had read this in a Boy's Own comic, you would find it hard to believe but it was true - not a bad days work! .

Merville Battery

Later, during the early hours of D Day, the 9th Parachute Battalion were tasked with taking the Merville Battery which contained 4 huge cannons aimed at the bay off the Normandy Beaches.

600 men parachuted in but, due to poor weather, many were dropped way off target; some landing in the sea, others in flooded fields, others shot in the air as the fell to ground. Only 150 found their rendezvous point. Their Commanding Officer, Lt-Col T Otway decided the attack could not wait as the landing depended on the guns being silenced. He urged his men on. Despite heavy casualties, they took the guns. 100 Germans were killed and 26 were taken prisoner.

At the entrance to the battery is a refurbished Dakota; one of only a few left in existence. These planes were the work horses of the War and many went on to civil aviation companies afterwards. This one was found decaying in Egypt.

The battery still contains the 4 huge gun casements and other buildings like the canteen, ammunition stores and blockhouses. Some of them have exhibitions inside and one has a sound and light show of what it would have been like on the night of the attack - not for the faint-hearted.

Pegasus Bridge

I won't bore you with all the details, but just post the highlights of my recent grip to France. 

I visited the Normandy Beaches about 10 years ago and have gathered things have changed in that time such as established museums being updated and new museums being built. I have been talking the trip over with my youngest son Ben but that trip might be some way off due to his work and family commitments so I thought a recce would be in order.

Starting at Pegasus Bridge, this was the extreme eastern edge of the landing grounds and had to taken and held by the British in the small hours of D Day. It was to be the main breakout point for the allies so the occupying Germans had to be overcome and stopped from blowing it up.

After months of training, the 6th Airborne landed their gliders within 50 meters of the bridge. This would have been a remarkable achievement in daylight after many practice runs but this was done first time in the dark over enemy occupied France. The bridge and its sister bridge were taken in the first ten minutes and held until reinforcements arrived later in the day. It is well documented so if you're interested, find it on line.

The existing bridge is a replacement in the original style... 

...but, following pressure, the original bridge has been preserved in the grounds of the museum. A very well informed and enthusiastic young guide illuminated the scene on the night of 6 June 1944.

The museum is a fantastic dedication to the men who fought at the bridge; not only those that lived to tell the tale but also those who died. One person in particular stands out. As the landing force ran over the bridge to take out the small defending sentries, Lt Den Brotheridge was mortally wounded in the neck. 

He was buried in the nearby Ranville civilian cemetery as the military cemetery had not been started at that point. He was the first man to die on D Day and didn't live to see his soon to be born baby girl.  His daughter has been back many times to pay respect to the father she never knew. Moving stuff.

A full sized replica of the Horsa glider is also on display. None of the original gliders still exist; they were designed to be used only once and after the landings they were stripped by locals for fire wood and mementos.

This is a 'must see' place on any trip to the Beaches - you cannot fail to be impressed by the bravery and tenacity of the men involved.

Oh, and don't forget to pop into the Cafe Gondree for some refreshments!

Is this bird simply mad?

Just spent 10 days touring the northwest coast of France by Landy - more to follow on that - but in the meantime, is this bird simply mad or just simple?