Picture this: you walk into a Charity Shop and browse the book shelves. You pick out a book you want to buy and take it to the counter. The assistant looks at the sales ticket and sees it's been priced up as £1.99.
You hand over 2 shiny pound coins and put the change, a single penny, in the charity tin on the counter. After all, it's a charity shop.
Then you wonder why they marked it up at £1.99. Do they really think you would only buy the book for £1.99 and not a nice round £2? Or do they think you might go next door and try to find the same book at a competitor's charity shop? Of course not!
So, Charity Shops, start treating us with a bit of common sense. We're not daft, we know £1.99 is only a penny short of £2 so why don't you save yourself a lot of printing, save yourselves time, save handling so much small change, and stop thinking you are in a real market place having to compete with other shops, 'cos you're not.
It would also save your staff loads of time and aggravation having to listen to grumpy old men like me going on about ticket prices with 99p at the end of them!
Thursday 30 April 2015
Tuesday 28 April 2015
NEPAL
If you can spare a few pounds, please help the people of Nepal.
Ring 0370 6060900 or go online to dec.org.uk
Sunday 26 April 2015
Replacement lamp
Skylark was built with a very modern lamp for navigating at night and in tunnels. It reminds me of the lady behind the fish counter at my local Co-op, very clean and functional but lacking somewhat in the looks department. Fortunately, I have not had to take it out much (the lamp that is) but, when ever I do, I'm slightly embarrassed. You know the feeling, I'm sure.
So, when I happened across an older, more traditional looking lamp at my local car boot sale, I snapped it up.
It looks like it was designed for an old car as it has a main and dipped beam. I think it would normally be fitted on top of a wing but as the lens was fitted upside down I guessed it was either fitted under a car bumper or maybe had already been used on a boat to illuminate the roof of tunnels - I will never know. As it's in such good condition I guessed the latter.
Anyway, attaching it to my short de-mountable metal post was a doddle but the electrical connections presented me a slight problem.
Instead of two simple terminals, one positive and one negative as on the other lamp, this lamp has three; one negative and two positives to operate the two different beams. As I only aim to use the main beam, I have to work out which of the three terminals to use. No great shakes, I hear you say, just need to whip out your multi-meter and practice a bit of basic electronics.
The next problem is finding a couple of spade connectors to fit the larger than average 8mm terminals. As yet I have not found anyone who makes them this size. I can get 4, 5, 6 and 9.5mm but not 8mm. Am I missing something? Yes, an 8mm connector! I will keep looking but guess I'll either use the 9.5mm ones and work on them with a pair of pliers, or cobble together a 'Heath Robinson' arrangement of twisted wires and insulation tape. If you have any suggestions, please email me. If not, I will persevere and hope for the best.
Update: Today, in my local car accessory shop, I found a crafty little connector made specifically for this situation, that is to attach an old style bulb to a modern electrical system. I can't remember what it's called but it has 3 female spade terminals of just the right size (8mm) linked to three wires, ready for connecting up. Now it's back to the boat to fit it and see if it works.
So, when I happened across an older, more traditional looking lamp at my local car boot sale, I snapped it up.
It looks like it was designed for an old car as it has a main and dipped beam. I think it would normally be fitted on top of a wing but as the lens was fitted upside down I guessed it was either fitted under a car bumper or maybe had already been used on a boat to illuminate the roof of tunnels - I will never know. As it's in such good condition I guessed the latter.
Anyway, attaching it to my short de-mountable metal post was a doddle but the electrical connections presented me a slight problem.
Instead of two simple terminals, one positive and one negative as on the other lamp, this lamp has three; one negative and two positives to operate the two different beams. As I only aim to use the main beam, I have to work out which of the three terminals to use. No great shakes, I hear you say, just need to whip out your multi-meter and practice a bit of basic electronics.
The next problem is finding a couple of spade connectors to fit the larger than average 8mm terminals. As yet I have not found anyone who makes them this size. I can get 4, 5, 6 and 9.5mm but not 8mm. Am I missing something? Yes, an 8mm connector! I will keep looking but guess I'll either use the 9.5mm ones and work on them with a pair of pliers, or cobble together a 'Heath Robinson' arrangement of twisted wires and insulation tape. If you have any suggestions, please email me. If not, I will persevere and hope for the best.
Update: Today, in my local car accessory shop, I found a crafty little connector made specifically for this situation, that is to attach an old style bulb to a modern electrical system. I can't remember what it's called but it has 3 female spade terminals of just the right size (8mm) linked to three wires, ready for connecting up. Now it's back to the boat to fit it and see if it works.
Saturday 25 April 2015
Annual service
I carried out the annual service this week. Obviously, I check the oil, coolant and battery levels, tightness of bolts etc much more regularly and I pump grease into the stern tube at the end of each day's travel (including keeping things clean 'down below') but a full annual service is recommended by the manufacturers. I know some owners change their oil more frequently, especially if they do more hours, but for a strong diesel engine that gets used regularly and never gets much above 2000 revs, I think an annual service is plenty adequate. The cleanness of the oil that comes out of the engine proves this.
To clarify, the Owners Manual states:
Every year or 250 hours if sooner
• Change engine lubricating oil (standard sump)
• Change lubricating oil filter
• Check air cleaner element
• Spray the key switch with WD40 or equivalent to
lubricate the barrel.
• Check that all external nuts, bolts and fastenings are tight.
• Check ball joint nyloc nuts for tightness on both gearbox
and speed control levers.
Every 750 hours (In addition to 250 hours maintenance)
• Change air cleaner element.
• Change fuel filter.
• Change antifreeze.
• Change gearbox oil.
• Check electrical equipment, condition of hoses and belts,
replace as necessary.
By the way, I should mention, I am no expert on this so I rely heavily on others with much more knowledge and experience, and I make frequent referrals to the Owners Manual, which is very readable for a non-expert like me. Anyway, armed with old towels, basic tools and new oil/filters I set about the job. Incidentally, I find it much easier to sit on my 'make-do' wooden bench across the engine bay rather than leaning in.
The in-built sump pump is a great bit of kit so I pump the old engine oil straight into old plastic milk bottles - they are free, handy sized and easy to dispose of. I mop up any oil drips as I go.The latex gloves also help to keep me and everything else clean. I've got no idea where I learnt to keep everything clean and tidy as I go, but it works.
Then it's out with the old filter (wrapped in a plastic bag) and in with the new one, re-fill, run up the engine again and check for leaks/level. Adjust as needed.
I then changed the fuel filter, checked the air filter (which didn't need changing this time), checked the transmission oil (which didn't need changing or topping up) and generally cleaned and tidied up the engine bay. Job done in about an hour.
While I was on board I re-painted some of the walls in the main cabin and galley, polished a few brass things, tidied up and mopped the floor. Everything looking shiny and new - fab.
Skylark is booked in to have her bottom blacked at the start of June, which is a good thing. I will then start to think about repainting her outside - a more major job that needs careful planning and preparation.
Now, I don't like to talk about politics but turning to my postal voting papers I have to decide who deserves to represent me and, to be honest, the choice is bleak. I am always torn between two opposed principles. I know democracy is a fine thing, it must be protected and we must not waste our vote but why oh why must we put up with candidates of a such a low caliber. Just finding people we can trust would help and if we could get someone who will actually do something useful to improve our lives that, it seems, would be a bonus. A voice in my head keeps telling me that voting for these drab people just encourages them to stand for election and we should do something positive to raise the bar like giving each of them an IQ test before they can stand or inject them all with a truth hormone or, better still, fine them a substantial sum for every failed promise. That would make them think twice before they opened their mouths. Oh well, perhaps one day...
To clarify, the Owners Manual states:
Every year or 250 hours if sooner
• Change engine lubricating oil (standard sump)
• Change lubricating oil filter
• Check air cleaner element
• Spray the key switch with WD40 or equivalent to
lubricate the barrel.
• Check that all external nuts, bolts and fastenings are tight.
• Check ball joint nyloc nuts for tightness on both gearbox
and speed control levers.
Every 750 hours (In addition to 250 hours maintenance)
• Change air cleaner element.
• Change fuel filter.
• Change antifreeze.
• Change gearbox oil.
• Check electrical equipment, condition of hoses and belts,
replace as necessary.
By the way, I should mention, I am no expert on this so I rely heavily on others with much more knowledge and experience, and I make frequent referrals to the Owners Manual, which is very readable for a non-expert like me. Anyway, armed with old towels, basic tools and new oil/filters I set about the job. Incidentally, I find it much easier to sit on my 'make-do' wooden bench across the engine bay rather than leaning in.
The in-built sump pump is a great bit of kit so I pump the old engine oil straight into old plastic milk bottles - they are free, handy sized and easy to dispose of. I mop up any oil drips as I go.The latex gloves also help to keep me and everything else clean. I've got no idea where I learnt to keep everything clean and tidy as I go, but it works.
Then it's out with the old filter (wrapped in a plastic bag) and in with the new one, re-fill, run up the engine again and check for leaks/level. Adjust as needed.
I then changed the fuel filter, checked the air filter (which didn't need changing this time), checked the transmission oil (which didn't need changing or topping up) and generally cleaned and tidied up the engine bay. Job done in about an hour.
While I was on board I re-painted some of the walls in the main cabin and galley, polished a few brass things, tidied up and mopped the floor. Everything looking shiny and new - fab.
Skylark is booked in to have her bottom blacked at the start of June, which is a good thing. I will then start to think about repainting her outside - a more major job that needs careful planning and preparation.
Now, I don't like to talk about politics but turning to my postal voting papers I have to decide who deserves to represent me and, to be honest, the choice is bleak. I am always torn between two opposed principles. I know democracy is a fine thing, it must be protected and we must not waste our vote but why oh why must we put up with candidates of a such a low caliber. Just finding people we can trust would help and if we could get someone who will actually do something useful to improve our lives that, it seems, would be a bonus. A voice in my head keeps telling me that voting for these drab people just encourages them to stand for election and we should do something positive to raise the bar like giving each of them an IQ test before they can stand or inject them all with a truth hormone or, better still, fine them a substantial sum for every failed promise. That would make them think twice before they opened their mouths. Oh well, perhaps one day...
Wednesday 15 April 2015
Canoe seat webbing
I mentioned I'd broken the wicker seat on the canoe and had plans to refurbish it. Today I put those plans into action. You may be interested to see how I did it as it could be useful if you have to do the same or something similar.
Having taken the seat out of the canoe, I removed the old wicker
and sanded down what would become the new underside.
I had already measured the seat very accurately and worked out I could get 7 nylon strips in one direction and 11 in the other, with a 1.5 mm gap between them. However, to be sure it would fit, I cut 7 short strips and laid them out along the shortest side. Btw, each strip measured 25 mm wide but this approach would also work with different widths.
Satisfied that they would all fit in I started fitting the webbing; starting at the outer edges first and moving inwards.
I have invested in a new stapler from B&Q and used this to attach the webbing, obviously working from the underside. For only £10 (less 10% Old Geezers discount), I'm really impressed with this piece of kit. It made the job so easy. In fact I can't think of anything else that would have done the job better.
Then, using the workbench adjustable stops to brace the seat against, I stretched the webbing over the opposite edge and stapled it again, to match the other side. Each time I cut the webbing, I melted the cut edge with a cigarette lighter to stop the ends fraying.
I completed the first run. I was pleased to see everything was straight and all the 1.5 mm gaps were equal.
I started on the longer side, interweaving the webbing as I went. This time I started in the middle and worked outwards to make sure it ended up symmetrical.
Before I finished, I tapped each staple with a hammer to make sure they were all seated in properly.
After about an hour the seat was completed and I inspected my handwork...from underneath...
And from the topside...
I have to say, I was pretty chuffed with the result so I cracked open a bottle of Vimto in celebration.
Of course I could be accused of being biased so I took a second opinion from Lady Saga and she said it looked very professional. She liked the nice springy twang when she flicked it with her test finger (the one she uses to test for things like temperature, stickiness, sharpness, dustiness, etc etc.)
All I have to do now is refit into the boat and give it a test flight.
.........................................................................................................
Update:
After re-fitting the seat, I took the canoe down the River Gipping to Claydon and slid it into the water. After the obligatory wobble as she found her way through the weeds at the edge of the river and I settled down, it turned out to be a very comfortable paddle.
There was enough 'give' in the seat to make it feel like I was in contact with the boat without me sinking into the bilges and there was just enough 'adhesion' to stop me slipping around as I paddled.
It is, of course, waterproof (which is a good thing under the circumstances) and there is a reasonable degree of breathability (if you get my drift). Also, as the nylon is rot-proof and tear-proof, it should last a long time. In fact, I don't think it can be bettered and, given the webbing had only cost me something in the region of £3.50, I think it will prove to be very good value for money. Job done!
Having taken the seat out of the canoe, I removed the old wicker
and sanded down what would become the new underside.
I had already measured the seat very accurately and worked out I could get 7 nylon strips in one direction and 11 in the other, with a 1.5 mm gap between them. However, to be sure it would fit, I cut 7 short strips and laid them out along the shortest side. Btw, each strip measured 25 mm wide but this approach would also work with different widths.
Satisfied that they would all fit in I started fitting the webbing; starting at the outer edges first and moving inwards.
I have invested in a new stapler from B&Q and used this to attach the webbing, obviously working from the underside. For only £10 (less 10% Old Geezers discount), I'm really impressed with this piece of kit. It made the job so easy. In fact I can't think of anything else that would have done the job better.
Then, using the workbench adjustable stops to brace the seat against, I stretched the webbing over the opposite edge and stapled it again, to match the other side. Each time I cut the webbing, I melted the cut edge with a cigarette lighter to stop the ends fraying.
I completed the first run. I was pleased to see everything was straight and all the 1.5 mm gaps were equal.
I started on the longer side, interweaving the webbing as I went. This time I started in the middle and worked outwards to make sure it ended up symmetrical.
I laid the short webbing strips along the edge again to make sure it all fitted before I started stapling.
After about an hour the seat was completed and I inspected my handwork...from underneath...
And from the topside...
I have to say, I was pretty chuffed with the result so I cracked open a bottle of Vimto in celebration.
Of course I could be accused of being biased so I took a second opinion from Lady Saga and she said it looked very professional. She liked the nice springy twang when she flicked it with her test finger (the one she uses to test for things like temperature, stickiness, sharpness, dustiness, etc etc.)
All I have to do now is refit into the boat and give it a test flight.
.........................................................................................................
Update:
After re-fitting the seat, I took the canoe down the River Gipping to Claydon and slid it into the water. After the obligatory wobble as she found her way through the weeds at the edge of the river and I settled down, it turned out to be a very comfortable paddle.
There was enough 'give' in the seat to make it feel like I was in contact with the boat without me sinking into the bilges and there was just enough 'adhesion' to stop me slipping around as I paddled.
It is, of course, waterproof (which is a good thing under the circumstances) and there is a reasonable degree of breathability (if you get my drift). Also, as the nylon is rot-proof and tear-proof, it should last a long time. In fact, I don't think it can be bettered and, given the webbing had only cost me something in the region of £3.50, I think it will prove to be very good value for money. Job done!
Monday 13 April 2015
Canoe Update
Just thought I'd mention, before I went to Cambridge, I took the canoe up the River Stour from Catterwade to Flatford and very nice it was too. I'll probably add some notes about this and other trips in later posts.
Anyway, a couple things I thought you might be interested in:
The canoe is an Old Town Pack made of the very durable Royalex material. It very tough and flexible but shows up scratches and scrapes. Also, like most other plastics, the sun can make it go dull so I've invested in a couple of spray bottles of 303 Aerospace Protectant.
Sounds highly technical but what exactly is it I hear you say? Well, it's probably the best UV protectant you can find on the market developed in the US of A for the aerospace and aviation industries. It protects plastics, vinyls, rubber, leather and the like from UV rays but also brings them up to an as-new finish - just what you would want if you were an astronaut buzzing about in your space shuttle. Apparently it also works well on more mundane things like boats, cars, motorbikes, garden furniture, etc etc. It's not cheap (well, it wouldn't be) but works like nothing else I have ever found. Try it and see for yourself.
Anyway, a quick spray and buffing has brought the canoe up like new.
I might try it on the Landy - it could help when I'm preparing to re-enter my parking space.
Now the bad news. After my trip up the Stour, while I was putting canoe on the Landy roof, it slipped to one side and, when I got home, I found the wicker seat had been damaged by the roof rack.
Oh dear I thought to myself. That doesn't look very nice but I mustn't cry over split milk. Find a solution. Rather than buying a replacement at great cost, I have decided to re-upholster (?) it myself with interwoven black nylon webbing. I've only had enough time to work out how to do it so I will report back on progress. Such fun!
Anyway, a couple things I thought you might be interested in:
The canoe is an Old Town Pack made of the very durable Royalex material. It very tough and flexible but shows up scratches and scrapes. Also, like most other plastics, the sun can make it go dull so I've invested in a couple of spray bottles of 303 Aerospace Protectant.
Sounds highly technical but what exactly is it I hear you say? Well, it's probably the best UV protectant you can find on the market developed in the US of A for the aerospace and aviation industries. It protects plastics, vinyls, rubber, leather and the like from UV rays but also brings them up to an as-new finish - just what you would want if you were an astronaut buzzing about in your space shuttle. Apparently it also works well on more mundane things like boats, cars, motorbikes, garden furniture, etc etc. It's not cheap (well, it wouldn't be) but works like nothing else I have ever found. Try it and see for yourself.
Anyway, a quick spray and buffing has brought the canoe up like new.
I might try it on the Landy - it could help when I'm preparing to re-enter my parking space.
Now the bad news. After my trip up the Stour, while I was putting canoe on the Landy roof, it slipped to one side and, when I got home, I found the wicker seat had been damaged by the roof rack.
Oh dear I thought to myself. That doesn't look very nice but I mustn't cry over split milk. Find a solution. Rather than buying a replacement at great cost, I have decided to re-upholster (?) it myself with interwoven black nylon webbing. I've only had enough time to work out how to do it so I will report back on progress. Such fun!
Cambridge
This year, the EA and the Cam Conservators have agreed, for an additional 3% on top of the annual registration fee, boaters can now navigate the section of the Cam from Bottisham Lock to Jesus Lock. Last year it was a hefty 10%. This year, the 3% amounts to £26 for Skylark, a sum I thought worth paying (by comparison, the Kings Lynn mooring would cost me £27 per night!).
So I left home last Wednesday and headed into Ely for the night. On Thursday I headed further upstream to Popes Corner and turned into the Cam. The Cam from there is not much to write home about until you get through Bottisham Lock, it then improves significantly, becoming both narrower and more picturesque. The Cam Sailing Club is very traditional looking with its individual summer houses and main club house.
From Baits Bite Lock the river becomes even nicer with large properties and attractive gardens alongside, more rowers (bad luck last week Cambridge), large parks and boat houses. For a short distance, you have to move over to the left hand side of the river - no reason given. I guess its a long standing thing that no one wants to change.
I moored near Jesus Lock for the two nights and spent time in town window shopping and sightseeing. My spot by the river was idyllic and to be honest, I don't think any other accommodation could be bought that offered such a fantastic view of the lock.
It's hard to do the city justice when trying to describe it. The combination of historic universities in stunning buildings, high quality shops, restaurants, museums, art galleries, and of course the river, is a world beater and makes Cambridge a 'must visit' place for anyone who hasn't done so yet. Making the trip by boat and mooring so close to the city centre just adds a certain 'something special' that you would not get by car or train.
I returned to Ely and took a quiet mooring next to the Bridge Boat Yard. When I looked out this morning to a cracking sunrise, I found one of the trees on the opposite bank had collapsed. I'm not sure when this happened but all I could see was the crumpled mass of wood on the bank. It was a shame to lose such a significant landscape feature.
My journey back down the river to the Little Ouse Moorings was uneventful but in the clear warm weather it was perfect. On days like today, it was a pleasure to travel slowly and to stop frequently.
So I left home last Wednesday and headed into Ely for the night. On Thursday I headed further upstream to Popes Corner and turned into the Cam. The Cam from there is not much to write home about until you get through Bottisham Lock, it then improves significantly, becoming both narrower and more picturesque. The Cam Sailing Club is very traditional looking with its individual summer houses and main club house.
From Baits Bite Lock the river becomes even nicer with large properties and attractive gardens alongside, more rowers (bad luck last week Cambridge), large parks and boat houses. For a short distance, you have to move over to the left hand side of the river - no reason given. I guess its a long standing thing that no one wants to change.
I moored near Jesus Lock for the two nights and spent time in town window shopping and sightseeing. My spot by the river was idyllic and to be honest, I don't think any other accommodation could be bought that offered such a fantastic view of the lock.
It's hard to do the city justice when trying to describe it. The combination of historic universities in stunning buildings, high quality shops, restaurants, museums, art galleries, and of course the river, is a world beater and makes Cambridge a 'must visit' place for anyone who hasn't done so yet. Making the trip by boat and mooring so close to the city centre just adds a certain 'something special' that you would not get by car or train.
I returned to Ely and took a quiet mooring next to the Bridge Boat Yard. When I looked out this morning to a cracking sunrise, I found one of the trees on the opposite bank had collapsed. I'm not sure when this happened but all I could see was the crumpled mass of wood on the bank. It was a shame to lose such a significant landscape feature.
My journey back down the river to the Little Ouse Moorings was uneventful but in the clear warm weather it was perfect. On days like today, it was a pleasure to travel slowly and to stop frequently.
Friday 3 April 2015
So...
Tell me this - why do lots of people start answering questions with the word 'So...'?
It's happening more and more nowadays. I even heard it in a shop the other day. I asked if they had a particular product and the girl said, 'So, if you go in to aisle 3 you'll find it there.' What's that all about?
And to make matters worse, she told me to 'Have a nice day.' Ahhhhh!
Am I becoming a GOM?
It's happening more and more nowadays. I even heard it in a shop the other day. I asked if they had a particular product and the girl said, 'So, if you go in to aisle 3 you'll find it there.' What's that all about?
And to make matters worse, she told me to 'Have a nice day.' Ahhhhh!
Am I becoming a GOM?
Thursday 2 April 2015
I've a canoe!
After a few days away (doing the usual cleaning, sweeping, polishing and chilling), I decided to buy myself a Canadian canoe to extend my boating into the rivers and creeks that Skylark can't reach. In Suffolk we are blessed with lots of rivers such as the Stour, the Gipping and Orwell, the Deben and Waveney that are crying out to be explored.
I've had a kayak for many years but not used it much recently because it's a bit restricted for space and easy to tip over (not much fun). So, an open canoe has been bought and paid for.
It's a secondhand Old Town Pack measuring 12' in length and weighing in at a paltry 15 kgs - easy to lift on and off the Landy roof. I fitted the two air bags to aid buoyancy in the event of a big splash and invested in a new buoyancy jacket (one that does not self-inflate when you hit the water). The paddle is borrowed from my kayak.
Even though I have spent an arm and a leg on registering Skylark with the EA, I have needed a licence for this boat too. In fact, I think boat registration should be like having a tv licence where you can have extra sets in your house/boat/caravan once you get a licence for home. Anyway, joining Canoe England comes with a licence so I've done that.
Now its time to pack a few things in a waterproof bag (eg, a towel, spare togs, grub and a drink) and head off into the wide blue yonder.
I've had a kayak for many years but not used it much recently because it's a bit restricted for space and easy to tip over (not much fun). So, an open canoe has been bought and paid for.
It's a secondhand Old Town Pack measuring 12' in length and weighing in at a paltry 15 kgs - easy to lift on and off the Landy roof. I fitted the two air bags to aid buoyancy in the event of a big splash and invested in a new buoyancy jacket (one that does not self-inflate when you hit the water). The paddle is borrowed from my kayak.
Even though I have spent an arm and a leg on registering Skylark with the EA, I have needed a licence for this boat too. In fact, I think boat registration should be like having a tv licence where you can have extra sets in your house/boat/caravan once you get a licence for home. Anyway, joining Canoe England comes with a licence so I've done that.
Now its time to pack a few things in a waterproof bag (eg, a towel, spare togs, grub and a drink) and head off into the wide blue yonder.
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